Real gold, gold plated or vermeil: what are you actually buying?

All that glitters is not gold. Worth knowing what is glittering, then, and for how long.

Atelier TOV6 min readUpdated 11 November 2026

The short answer

Real gold is not a layer but the metal itself: a gold alloy, hallmarked with a number like 585 (14k) or 750 (18k). Gold plated means a thin layer of gold over another metal, which wears away with time. Vermeil is silver with a thicker gold layer; gold filled is a thicker layer still, bonded to another metal. Only real gold can simply be polished back to life after years.

In this story

Four words, four very different pieces
How to tell if gold is real
Sensitive skin: where it often goes wrong
Why real gold works out better in the long run
Frequently asked questions

Four words, four very different pieces

In the shop, they all shine like gold. The difference only shows after a few years of wear, or in the hallmark.

	What it is	Hallmark	After years of wear
Real gold	Gold mixed with other metals, not a layer. 14k is 58.5% gold, 18k is 75%	585 or 750 (less gold: 375, 333)	Polish it with a soft cloth
Gold plated	A wafer-thin layer of gold over brass, copper or silver	Often none, sometimes GP	The layer wears off and the metal underneath shows through
Vermeil	Silver (925) with a thicker layer of gold	925	Wears more slowly, but it's still a layer
Gold filled (rolled gold)	A thick layer of gold, bonded to another metal with heat and pressure	Often GF or 1/20	Lasts a long time, but it's still a layer

With gold plating, that layer is often only about a thousandth of a millimetre thick. On rings and bracelets, which brush against things all day, that's where you see it first.

How to tell if gold is real

The hallmark. Look for a tiny number on the inside of a ring or near the clasp of a necklace. 585 or 750 is real gold: 14k or 18k. 375 and 333 are too, but with far less gold. See 925 on a gold-coloured piece? Then it's silver with a layer of gold.
The letters. GP, HGE or RGP means plated, GF means gold filled. So "18K GP" isn't 18k gold, it's a layer.
The certificate. A good seller tells you exactly what you're buying. At TOV, every piece comes with a personal digital certificate of authenticity.
The edges. See a different colour showing through at the clasp or along the edges? Then a layer is wearing away.
The magnet. Gold isn't magnetic. If a piece sticks to a magnet, it isn't real gold. If it doesn't stick, that proves nothing yet: plenty of other metals aren't magnetic either.

Want to be sure? Have it tested by a jeweller. Scratch or acid tests at home: better not.

Sensitive skin: where it often goes wrong

With plated jewellery, the metal underneath ends up against your skin after a while. Cheap alloys often contain nickel, the best-known cause of itching and red patches. Copper and brass can leave a greenish mark on your skin.

All our jewellery, from gold hoops to necklaces, is nickel-free and suitable for sensitive skin. If your skin keeps reacting, ask your doctor for advice.

Why real gold works out better in the long run

A plated piece seems like the smart buy at first. Until the layer wears off and you buy a new one. And another. Real gold stays gold: it doesn't rust or oxidise. If it looks dull from soap, lotion or perfume, two minutes of polishing brings it back. Here's how: how to clean gold jewellery.

At TOV, every piece is real 14k or 18k gold, never gold-plated, hallmarked 585 or 750. Our white gold is real 14k gold too: the fine rhodium layer gives it its white shine, with real gold underneath. More on karats in our gold guide.

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Frequently asked questions

Is gold plated real gold?

There is real gold on it, but only as a thin layer over another metal. So the piece itself isn't gold, and the layer wears away as you wear it.

What's the difference between vermeil and gold plated?

Vermeil is always silver (925) with a layer of gold on top, and that layer is thicker than on ordinary plated jewellery. Plating can sit on any metal, often brass or copper.

How can you tell if gold is real?

By the hallmark: 585 is 14k, 750 is 18k. Letters like GP, HGE or GF mean a layer. In doubt? Have it tested by a jeweller.

Can gold plated jewellery turn your skin green?

It can. Once the layer wears, the metal underneath touches your skin, and copper or brass can leave a greenish mark. Real gold doesn't rust or oxidise.

Can you shower with gold plated jewellery?

Better not: soap, water and friction make the layer wear faster. Real gold is perfectly fine with water. Soap can make it a little dull, but that polishes right off.